It turns out that the suggested solution of adding BIGTIFF="IF_SAFER" to the rasterio.open arguments does not remove the problem. I still get an error:
rasterio._err.CPLE_NotSupportedError: A 140401 pixels x 36001 lines x 1 bands Int16 image would be larger than 4GB but this is the largest size a TIFF can be, and BigTIFF is unavailable. Creation failed.
Is there a way to circumvent or workaround this? Why is BIGTIFF="IF_SAFER" not working?